Lava Viewing at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park (+GIVEAWAY)

Posted on Mar 13, 2017 by Tom Bricker  •  Reports  •  56 Comments

dusk-zoom-lava-ocean-entry-kamokuna-viewing-hawaii-volcanoes-national-park-bricker

Recently, we hiked out to see the “firehose flow” at Kīlauea Volcano’s Kamokuna ocean lava entry in Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park. This post is about our experience hiking out to the viewing area, along with some photos of the lava entering the ocean. I’ll also provide some lava viewing & photography tips, and recommendations for making this hike.

Until the trip, we didn’t know we’d even be making the hike. Lava flow is intermittent at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, and the viewing area had been closed completely after 26 acres of lava delta and 4 acres of the cliff collapsed on New Year’s Eve. As a result, viewing had closed while the National Park Service evaluated the integrity of the remaining cliff area.

The current lava flow is known as “episode 61g” and is lava flow from the Puʻu ʻŌʻō vent of Kīlauea Volcano. This lava flow is entering the ocean at Kamokuna and is feeding surface flows on and above the pali. It was pretty awesome to see, and quite the memorable experience. If you have the chance, I’d highly recommend going. Just don’t plan the trip too far in advance and consult Hawaii Volcanoes National Park’s “What’s Going On With the Volcano?” status update page (regularly updated), as the lava flow can change…

Currently, there are two options for accessing the firehose lava flow: from the west side via Chain of Craters Road inside Hawaii Volcanoes National Park or from the east side via Kalapana State Wayside Park. From the west side, you park near the Hōlei Sea Arch and hike a little over 5 miles; we were told the last mile of this is really rough terrain (presumably hardened lava). The east side is a longer drive outside of the park, but only a 4.2 mile hike (each way) on a gravel emergency access road.  

We had actually been over at Hōlei Sea Arch earlier in the day and could see the steam from Kīlauea Volcano’s lava entering the ocean in the distance, along with a slow trickle of people starting their hike. However, we opted for the shorter, easier hike through Kalapana State Wayside Park. Our rationale was (partly) that it’d be easier, but the primarily motivation was shooting into the sun at sunset, which would not have been possible from the other direction.

path-kamokuna-lava-viewing-hawaii-volcanoes-national-park-533

I don’t want to say our decision was a mistake, because I stand by it and the epic sunset that night vindicated the decision. I will say this: the ‘scene’ at Kalapana State Wayside Park should be Exhibit A as to why the federal government should preserve our nation’s most sacred lands as National Parks, rather than turning them over to state control.

Kalapana State Wayside Park felt more like a flea market than it did a state park. A cottage industry of various service providers and vendors had a good half-mile of “temporary” tents set up, with no less than a dozen bike rental services, shuttle services, food & beverage, and who knows what else. Parking was being managed by one of the shuttle providers, rather than state park workers. (Is this even a state park, or is it private land and I’m just somehow mistaken? I’d love to be wrong…)

path-kamokuna-lava-viewing-hawaii-volcanoes-national-park-534

Suffice to say, the hike itself wasn’t much better. The shuttles I mentioned above are allowed to exist because there are a few houses on the emergency access road, and those homeowners are driving their “guests” up and down the road. (At least that’s what I’m told, and it’s the only plausible explanation since there was some sort of gatekeeper at the start of the emergency access road.)

Throughout this hike, you thus have to get off the road as the cars and off-road shuttles pass, or else have dirt and gravel slung up at you. Fortunately for most people, almost no one does this as a hike. Just about everyone rents a bike for the first 3 miles of the journey. I suppose that’d be pretty quick and easy. About the only highlight was that we met someone’s dog and its puppies.

path-kamokuna-lava-viewing-hawaii-volcanoes-national-park-535Being a combination of frugal and someone who enjoys hikes, I wanted to do this as an actual hike–not cheat. So, we hiked. There were only two other people we saw hiking. It was not a fun hike. It was really easy and more a long walk than an actual hike, but it still wasn’t fun.

However, about 3 miles into the hike, you hit the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park entrance. Beyond this point, bikes and vehicles are prohibited and everyone must continue by foot. The hike became about infinity-percent more enjoyable at this point–it became an actual hike. At this point, I’m inclined to rant further about the importance of the National Park Service, but I’ll spare you that.

path-kamokuna-lava-viewing-hawaii-volcanoes-national-park-538

After maybe another mile of enjoyable hiking, we reached the turn off for the Kamokuna ocean entry viewing area. Here, there was a NPS Ranger with a truck, supply of water, and information for visitors. He advised that we could go to the left to view the ocean entry, or to the right to view surface lava flows.

The hike had taken longer than expected, and I wanted to stake out a spot (there were a ton of people here already) for sunset, so we opted to go left. To the right, I know we could’ve have gotten a few feet from lava on the ground surface, which probably would’ve been a cooler experience…but not as photogenic.

soft-sunset-lava-ocean-entry-kamokuna-viewing-hawaii-volcanoes-national-park-bricker copy

To the left, after maybe a quarter-mile walk over uneven, hardened lava flows, we reached the roped-off viewing area. This was a bit farther inland than I was expecting. From the ocean side of the viewing area, you could vaguely see the lava itself, but not nearly as well as in photos I’ve seen. My guess is that the NPS erred on the side of caution when creating a new viewing area after the collapse, and moved it a bit away from the water.

My recommendation for viewing would be to find a spot along the rope that is closest to the ocean. The photo above was taken as up against the rope on the ocean side, and as you can see, the lava is barely visible around the cliff. The field of view for actually seeing firehose lava flow can be fairly narrow depending upon the flow, so if you don’t get a rope-side spot, you may not see the lava at all.

Closer to the lava is not necessarily better. You’re a half-mile away, give or take, no matter where you stand, so 50 feet one way or the other doesn’t make much of a difference. Instead, find an elevated perch so your view isn’t blocked if someone stands in front of you (and they will).

sunset-ocean-entry-kamokuna-lava-viewing-hawaii-volcanoes-national-park-bricker

This is not to diminish the ocean lava entry in any way. It was stunning. From of the most beautiful and captivating scenes I’d ever seen–it just didn’t translate to photos so well.

Fortunately, as the sun started dipping behind the clouds, it was clear mother nature was going to put on a show. This was great news, given that I couldn’t get any direct, close-up photos of the lava flow.

wide-sunset-ocean-entry-kamokuna-lava-viewing-hawaii-volcanoes-national-park-bricker

The above photo is a wide field of view that should provide a frame of reference for how far away we were. This was taken right after official sunset time, and was about the sweet spot in terms of the sky’s color. This was the best sunset we had while in Hawaii, and it couldn’t have come at a better time.

In researching lava viewing and photography, I had read a lot about photographers waiting until after the National Park Service Rangers had left the viewing area, and then venturing beyond the viewing area boundaries. My understanding was that this was perfectly safe, and a “wink and a nod” type situation with the National Park Service–so long as they weren’t there and you were careful, they didn’t really care what people did.

And, that very well might have been the case, but after reading about the cliff collapse, I was too spooked to try this. Moreover, it seemed like there were a good number of NPS Rangers (likely because the area had just reopened and due to the past incident), and my guess was that–if their attitude ever was previously lax–they were no longer cool with people going beyond the ropes of the viewing area.

long-exposure-night-lava-flow-ocean-hawaii-volcanoes-national-park

The other problem this would pose is that you’d have to wait until dark to get your photos. Given how bright the lava is, and the way it illuminates the steam as soon as the sun goes down, the peak window for photos is sunset until dusk. You have around a 30 minute window of optimal conditions, before which the sky is too bright for the lava to color the steam, and after which there’s too much dynamic range between shadows and highlights. The above photo was 20 minutes after sunset, and that was probably about 5 minutes after I should’ve taken it. My shots from 5 minutes later are mostly garbage.

Photographing the lava at the Kamokuna ocean lava entry was way more challenging than I expected. I knew what to do in terms of technique, but I didn’t account for the wind off of the ocean, which would pose a challenge for my tripod when mounted with a telephoto lens. (Further photography tips are probably beyond the scope of this report, but I can do a separate post if enough people are interested–just let me know in the comments.)

In the end, I’m fine with the photos I got. They are not the best or most dramatic photos of Kīlauea Volcano’s lava flow, but I think a couple are good as landscape images. They are also nice mementos of our visit to the Kamokuna ocean lava entry.

The hike back was much more pleasant than the hike there. We could see the stars overhead and surface lava flow glowing to the north (inland), and from a distance it looked like the glow of tail-lights on the highway. (It reminded me of hiking up above Yosemite Valley and then looking down at the loop of traffic from a mile up…except with lava.)

Of course, as is always the case on a return hike, it felt considerably longer than the hike out. Instead of being another 4.2 miles, I swear this was like 6 miles. (It wasn’t.) The only explanation for this could be that we had the wind in our faces on the return hike, instead of at our backs, because the hike should’ve been easier once the sun went down.

If I had this to do over again, I would make the hike from the Hōlei Sea Arch side, inside Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. Perhaps I’m just a grumpy curmudgeon, but the roadside kitsch and bike/vehicle traffic of the gravel road “hike” really put a damper on the experience for me. I’d prefer to spin myself as a “purist” rather than a curmudgeon, though.

For me, a hike to see natural beauty is not something to be circumvented; it’s part of the journey that you savor, a precursor that makes the destination itself more rewarding and satisfying. Plus, once you factor in the driving time from inside the park to loop around and go outside to the state park, you’re probably just better off (time-wise) doing a slightly longer hike.

As much as I care about photos, I think hiking in from the Volcanoes National Park side would’ve been the better and more rewarding experience, even if it produced lesser photos (and I’m betting it would have). Alternatively, for the best of both worlds, I’d go at sunrise from the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park side. This would also likely have far, far fewer people, making it a more serene experience, too.

Irrespective of all that, this was a truly incredible experience. Seeing flowing lava firsthand, even from a distance, is amazing; it’s entrancing just watching the lava hit the water, kicking up ash and other debris, as the sparks fly. Even with my grumbling about the hike, if you have the chance to do this, it is absolutely worth the time and effort. A really, really cool experience.

Giveaway

shellie-may-plush-aulani-disney-resort-oahu-hawaii-517

This giveaway is to help kick off “Hawaii Week,” during which we will have a new post about Hawaii everyday. (Other posts will include Pearl Harbor, the North Shore, Where to Stay, Where to Dine, and more!) The prize for this giveaway is an ShellieMay bear plush from Hawaii, which is basically worth $57,450. (Or $35, depending upon your accounting method.)

Here is a bit more explanation for some of the entry options, since we had some confusion in the last giveaway:

  • Comment on any of our Hawaii blog posts on TravelCaffeine–including this post!
  • Subscribe to our TravelCaffeine email newsletter. You need to go to that link and sign up via the form there; the entry field on the giveaway form below is confirmation that you signed up–it’s not how you sign up. (I know: that’s unnecessarily confusing, but I didn’t make the giveaway widget.)
  • Share! Those options are pretty self-explanatory…

a Rafflecopter giveaway

Please be sure to read the instructions for each giveaway entry method and then verify it in the giveaway form above. Best of luck in the giveaway!

If you’re planning a visit to the Big Island or Oahu, please check out my other posts about Hawaii for ideas of things to do. There are a ton of incredible, under-the-radar experiences in Hawaii, and I highly recommend Hawaii The Big Island Revealed Guide. It’s written by a Hawaii resident, and is far better than other books we’ve read.

Your Thoughts

Have you seen the lava flows in Hawaii Volcanos National Park? If so, how did you do it? Did you go on this hike, or see the flows elsewhere, or via other means? Does the 8+ mile ‘hike’ to see the lava sound worth it to you? Any thoughts or tips of your own to add? Please feel free to ask any questions you might have or share additional thoughts in the comments!



56 Comments

  1. Rachel G
    Mar 13, 2017

    That seems like it would be incredibly cool to experience in real life. Lava? Seeing real-life lazy? The stuff we spent our childhoods jumping from couch to couch to avoid falling into? Pretty epic.

  2. Mj
    Mar 13, 2017

    Someday I’ll get to Hawaii and do this.

  3. Whitney
    Mar 13, 2017

    13 years ago, I had the opportunity to go right where you went left. The soles of my shoes partially melted, but walking so near the lava flow was an absolutely incredible experience. I wasn’t practicing amateur photography at the time, but I wish I’d been able to get this close to the flow into the ocean and get some shots. Stunning photos, Tom. Thank you for sharing.

  4. Jessica
    Mar 13, 2017

    Looking forward to Hawaii week!!

  5. Jennifer jacques
    Mar 13, 2017

    Fun giveaway and thank you for all the tips!!! Dreaming of going there someday!

  6. Mia W.
    Mar 13, 2017

    Were you tempted to do the boat ride thing to see the lava? It’s on my list!

  7. Brian Keyes
    Mar 13, 2017

    Love the blog! Keep up the good work!

  8. Patrick C
    Mar 13, 2017

    Tom, I love your pictures! They are always so stunning and clear!

  9. Neha Sharma-Prabhakar
    Mar 13, 2017

    Love the pictures!

  10. Carolsue
    Mar 14, 2017

    I saw this before and after the eruption — what a change!
    Digicats {at} Sbcglobal {dot} Net

  11. Brian Hubbard
    Mar 14, 2017

    Nice shots, and good info about which “side” to take. I am hoping to take my family to Aulani at some point and all of these posts will be good references.

  12. Laura B
    Mar 14, 2017

    We didn’t have the time to this hike when visiting the big island. Definitely doing it next time!

  13. Clara
    Mar 14, 2017

    Great post, and photos! I think I would have felt the same about all the kitch and clutter on the “hike” in. But seeing lava flowing like that is just an amazing opportunity I would love to have–we were in Volcanoes National Park a couple years ago but there was no lava flow happening at the time. Anyway, I can’t wait to see the rest of your Hawaii posts. Did you do this trip in combo with a trip to Japan/Tokyo Disney? If so do you recommend the combo?

    • Tom Bricker
      Mar 14, 2017

      This was Hawaii-only. Our home airport is LAX, so airfare to Hawaii is often ~$300 RT, making it pretty easy for us to do Hawaii by itself. If you live in a place where airfare to Hawaii is more cost-prohibitive, I’d absolutely do the visit to Hawaii as a stopover on the way to Japan.

  14. Ann
    Mar 14, 2017

    I don’t know if I’m committing some kind of photographic blasphemy by asking this but do you have any tips for someone wanting to take lava pictures with just a plain old iPhone? We aren’t good enough photographers to warrant buying an expensive camera, plus we’re not sure we would want to lug one around.

    • Tom Bricker
      Mar 14, 2017

      Since the iPhone doesn’t have a telephoto zoom, you’re basically going to be taking wider landscape photos, so it’s really no different than any other landscape shot you’d take.

  15. Christie
    Mar 14, 2017

    My daughter adores Shelliemay! Great giveaway and fantastic report, as always.

  16. Kevin
    Mar 14, 2017

    The problem with reading your blog is that it makes me wish I had more time for travel! Japan, Yosemite, back to Switzerland, and now add Hawaii to the list… :)

    • Tom Bricker
      Mar 14, 2017

      Haha, well one of those destinations is considerably cheaper than the rest. Maybe start there! 😉

  17. Michelle P
    Mar 14, 2017

    Wow! Seeing your pics makes me rethink my decision to stay just on Oahu last month. I’ve got to get back and see that!!

  18. Erika R
    Mar 14, 2017

    This is so beautiful! We made an Oahu-only trip last July and stayed at Aulani for part of our trip (I read your other post – so sad about the show-to-luau transition! we loved the show). My husband is dying to return and see some lava!
    We also made a walk via the beach over to the Four Seasons to see the view. We marched confidently past a rope and guests only sign (that was not currently in use) all the way to the end of the path. On our way back, they had replaced the rope to keep riffraff like us OUT.

    • Erika R
      Mar 14, 2017

      Also I forgot to say that my daughter was devastated when the little menehune charm fell off her Aulani guest necklace in our yard as soon as we got home, and that she would loooove to have ShellieMay as a replacement souvenir. :)

  19. Debbie H
    Mar 14, 2017

    My husband went on a trip to Hawaii as a child and has vivid memories of this! I’m not sure we can afford a trip there any time soon, even Florida is a big deal for us! We live in Canada and I love both this blog and the Disney one. Beautiful photos :)

  20. sydney
    Mar 14, 2017

    These Hawaii blog posts are making me want to go!! It’ll be a few years before I get there (#brokestudentprobs) but I will definitely be using these articles to help plan when I do get to go!

  21. Kelsey
    Mar 14, 2017

    Thanks for sharing your experience here! I’ve been able to visit Oahu a couple times, but both times, the viewing areas were closed, so I’ve been disappointed. But even Volcanoes National Park on its own is so interesting to visit. Hiking the lava tubes was my favorite feature.

  22. Dawn. E
    Mar 14, 2017

    I started following your Disney blogs a year or so ago…..I think I’m hooked on this blog as well now. :)
    I love your writing style and humor. And as usual, the pics are amazing!

  23. Andrea
    Mar 14, 2017

    Amazing pictures! I love reading about your adventures. :)

  24. Rebecca
    Mar 14, 2017

    I LOVE your blog posts (here and Disney Tourist Blog)! Hawaii is definitely on my bucket list!

  25. Kristen N
    Mar 14, 2017

    I’m living vicariously through all of your posts disney and otherwise!! I hope to get to Hawaii some day but from the east coast the travel time seems daunting!! Can’t wait to see the rest of Hawaii week! (It does sound like wheel of fortune!)

    • Kristen N
      Mar 14, 2017

      Also I’d love a post on how you afford all this travel?!

  26. Doug E.
    Mar 14, 2017

    Incredible photos!

  27. Kristin Blair
    Mar 14, 2017

    My husband and I went to Hawaii for our honeymoon. Gosh, this makes me miss it soooo much!!

  28. Mike H
    Mar 14, 2017

    My family was lucky enough to experience Hawaii (Big Island and Oahu) because my wife won a Hawaiian vacation on Wheel of Fortune. We loved the Big Island as there is so much diversity across the island. We did a one day car trip with 13 stops where we saw Angel falls, drank coconut water from a fresh coconut, ate Malasadas, got great shave ice from a local convenience store (I also had SPAM musubi which was fantastic), explored a street market in Hilo, did a helicopter tour of the active volcano, visited Volcano National Park, and lastly drove up to the observatory deck on Mauna Kea for nighttime star gazing. It was such an amazing adventure!!! We LOVE Hawaii and we still dream of, one day, going back.

  29. Courtney R
    Mar 15, 2017

    Love these pictures! Hawaii is definitely on our bucket list, but maybe as an adult-only trip. Thank you for the blogs!

  30. Jennie O
    Mar 15, 2017

    Thanks for the information. Our trip to Hawaii was many years ago. I am hoping to go again in the next few years.

  31. Mike P
    Mar 15, 2017

    Your photos are inspiring to say the least.

  32. Shannon
    Mar 15, 2017

    Very helpful information! Aulani is on the bucket list so I am hoping to do this myself. I am an amateur photographer so I love seeing the pictures you take on your trips!

  33. Megan
    Mar 15, 2017

    Hawaii is on our travel list — just waiting on the kids to be a bit older so we’re not carrying around diapers everywhere we go.

  34. Lissa
    Mar 15, 2017

    How fortuitous is this post!! We are leaving bright and early tomorrow morning for the islands, to include the Big Island where we are very interested in getting to see and photograph some volcano action!!

  35. Jennifer gould
    Mar 15, 2017

    Loved reading all your tips. We are leaving for Hawaii in 3 1/2 weeks and are visiting this volcanos and are planning the paradise cove luau. Got some great tips for our visit to Pearl Harbor. Thank You.

  36. Rachel Mize
    Mar 15, 2017

    We stayed in the Pahoa/Kalapana area of the Big Island last August, when the lava had only been entering the ocean for a few months. We biked out to the viewing on our honeymoon in 2009, but we had our four year old with us this time so we took a helicopter tour. We also enjoyed the glow from the crater at the Jagger museum in Volcanoes National Park. Seeing lava in person is one of my favorite travel experiences.

  37. Ashley
    Mar 17, 2017

    the lava looks amazing. Shellimay is so cute that I feel like I would need to make a special stop just to shop in the gift shop. From reading your blog i also realize it might be best to skip out on dole plantation.

  38. Heather
    Mar 19, 2017

    Beautiful photos! So enjoy your posts on both sites.

  39. Amanda Dugan
    Mar 21, 2017

    WoW! AMAZING PHOTOS!!! What an experience! We honeymooned in Maui & Kauii nearly a decade ago… with hopes of returning back for our 10 year anniversary (this July!), we decided to treat ourselves and out 5 year old little girl to WDW instead (this Sept!)… a compromise of one out of this world adventure & experience, for another!! =)
    Thanks for sharing!!

  40. Ashley
    Mar 21, 2017

    Hoping to take my wife and four girls soon. What age is too young to really enjoy HI?

  41. LINA
    Mar 21, 2017

    I would love for my girls and I to experience Hawaii someday.

  42. Caity
    Mar 21, 2017

    This would be a dream come true for my husband and I, truly amazing!

  43. AR
    Mar 21, 2017

    Thank you for sponsoring the giveaway, and for your interesting look into the area!

  44. Ashley
    Mar 21, 2017

    I took a Big Island circle tour during our Hawaii trip 20 years ago & really enjoyed it. I was a geology major at the time so really enjoyed the stop at Volcanos National Park. Unfortunately it wasn’t actively erupting at that time.

  45. Binish Abdullah
    Mar 21, 2017

    Sounds like fun!

  46. Kristen Hernandez
    Mar 21, 2017

    What an awesome post. I would love to visit there one day. The write up and pictures make me feel like I am there.

  47. Tracy Kennedy
    Mar 21, 2017

    I can’t wait to visit Hawaii! The pictures you took are amazing!

  48. Giovanna Bechard
    Mar 22, 2017

    A family trip to Hawaii would be amazing! We’ve been talking and talking about it forever. From Maine to Hawaii… What a great story that would make! We live in Alaska for a while, and never made it down there-one of the biggest regrets ever!

  49. E. Gomez
    Mar 22, 2017

    The pictures are stunning and always add so much to each of these posts (at your Disney site as well!). Thanks so much for taking the time to include them.

  50. Aaron Ryan
    Mar 22, 2017

    Going to HI Volcanoes NP is on my bucket list. I lived close to an active volcano in Mexico, but I never got close enough to see the actual lava. Wonderful photographs!

  51. David Ford
    Mar 24, 2017

    “Kalapana State Wayside Park” “(Is this even a state park, or is it private land and I’m just somehow mistaken? I’d love to be wrong…)”. This place you wrote about is not a State park. The tents, parking, & venders are on State Road managed by the County of Hawaii.

Leave a comment

* Name, Email, Comment are Required